Right? Well maybe… Prior to this modern method of keeping your bath water in the tub, many homes use to have “ Standing Waste & Overflow ” a tall cylindrical barrel standing next to the tub with an interior plunger which allowed you to stop the water so you could bathe. Drop  the plunger down and it stopped the water, lift it up and the water would drain. They were eventually phased out (although thousands are still in service today) because they simply are no longer code compliant in most municipalities across the country. Enter the modern Trip Waste Assembly a simple device which can easily be operated by a flick of a lever located in the bathtubs overflow. Flick it up and the water stops, flick it down and the water drains. Generally trouble free but as time goes by hair, soap scum and variety of mysterious childrens toys make their way into the drain and interfere with plunger causing it to hang up or not operate at all. In addition the linkage that connects the plunger to the trip lever up top gets loose or completely disconnected. When this happens some minor (or major) adjustments will be required by removing the overflow plate / trip lever assembly and exploring exactly what the issue could be.

http://www.bobsplumbingvideos.com/in-this-bathtub-drain-stopper-trip-waste-assembly-tutorial-i-demonstrate-how-the-entire-assembly-functions-and-what-to-look-out-for-when-removing-the-overflow-trip-lever-plate/

Common Vent: An individual vent is permitted to vent two traps or trapped fixtures as a common vent. The traps or trapped fixtures being common vented shall be located on the same floor level Gordontheplumber.com Sewer rodding naperville illinois Compression Fitting: A kind of tubing or pipe connection where a nut and a sleeve or ferrule is placed over a copper or plastic tube and is compressed tightly around the tube as the nut is tightened forming a positive grip and seal without soldering. See Slip Joint. Coupling: A short fitting used to join two pieces of pipe. Cowl: A short fitting used to join two pieces of pipe. Cross Connection: Any physical connection or arrangement between two otherwise separate piping systems, one of which contains potable water and the other either water of unknown or questionable safety or steam, gas, or chemical whereby there may be a flow from one system to the other, the direction of flow depending on the pressure differential between the two systems. Crown Vent: A vent for a plumbing fixture in which the vent pipe is connected at the top of the curve in the pipe that forms the trap or within 2 pipe diameters of the trap. Dam: A barrier in the trapway of a toilet that controls the water level in the toilet bowl. Diaphragm: A flexible membrane in a valve that deflects down onto a rigid area of the valve body to regulate water flow from the supply lines. This eliminates the possibility of debris build-up within the valve.

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4. Another reason for a leak in this spot is that the valve itself may be defective and will need to be replaced. Before replacing the valve, you will need to drain your tank. You may discover that the source of the leak in your heater is at the connection of either the cold water inlet pipe or the hot water outlet pipe and the heater itself. If the leak is minor, the first thing to do is simply tighten the connection with a pipe wrench. If this does not solve the problem, it is best to ask for professional help. If you discover that water is leaking out of the bottom of the tank itself, and you know its old (over 8 years) its likely time to replace the device. Over time, corrosion rusts the walls of the tank, and it starts to leak. Unless you feel confident doing this job and are familiar with electricity, it is best to call a pro and have him install a new hot water tank. Depending on the device, this may cost you anywhere from $800-2,500 (includes installation).

https://stopwaterheaterleaking.com/general-tips-fixing-water-heater-leaking-problems/

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